CONSTRUCTION AND MODELLING
CONSTRUCTION OF SKIRT
Dimensions according to ISO standard
Waist girth= 74 cm
Hips girth = 98 cm
Description of work
By default the vertical line of measure:
Point 1 to Point 2 = waist to hip =
20 cm to 22 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = skirt length =
60 cm
Point 2 to Point 4 = 1/2 waist to
hip + 2 cm to 3 cm = 54 cm to 55 cm
Point 5 is the half distance
between Point 2 and Point 4.
From the Point 5 and Point 4 draw
vertical lines down and up and get Point 7.
For
forming the side seam for a 1 cm raised the extra horizontal line of the belt
line.
Point 1 to Point 6 = 1/2 waist girth + 1
cm
Point 7 to Point 6 = surplus that
is distributed to the side seams and dart.
Modelling skirt
CONSTRUCTION AND
MODELLING MEN'S TROUSERS
Basic dimension:
Height girth = 180 cm
Waist girth
= 90 cm
Trouser leg bottom size = 42 cm
Help size:
Description of work – front part:
Point 1 to Point 2 = Bottom = 25.5
cm
Description
of work – back part:
On the front right side is pocket.
Big pockets with pocket bag are sewing the zigzag stitching. Front and back legs
are covered with the specific dimensions and sections were connected to the
inner seam that does not exist in the model (Figure 6). Beck pockets with pleat on the middle which is
sew, and can be cut. This model has five belt loops width 1.5 cm. Hem is 2 cm.
CONSTRUCTION AND
MODELLING WOMEN'S
TROUSERS
Basic dimension:
Height girth = 168 cm
Waist girth
= 70 cm
Hips girth
=100 cm
Help size:
Length of the pattern = 106 cm
Waist to hip = 1/4 Hips + 1 cm to 2 cm =
26 cm
Inside leg length = Length of the pattern –
Bottom = 80 cm
Waist to knee = 1/2 Inside leg length + 1/10 Inside leg length
= 32 cm
Front waist
width* = 1/4 Hips
girth – 1cm = 24 cm
Back
waist width* = 1/4 Hips girth +
1 cm + addition 0 cm to 1 cm
Trouser leg bottom size = 42 cm
* Front waist width and Back waist width are for control.
Description of work – front
part:
On basic line we measure:
Point 1 to
Point 2 = 1.5 cm
Point 1 to
Point 3 = Waist to hip = 26 cm
Point 3 to Point 4 = Waist to knee = 32 cm
Point 1 to Point 5 = Length of the pattern = 106 cm
Point 5 to Point 6 = 3 cm to 4 cm depending on the
model for the hem, cuffs
Point 3 to Point 7 = 1/20 Hips girth
+ 3 cm = 8 cm
From the obtained points draw parallel lines.
Point 7 to Point 8 = Front
waist width = 24 cm
Point 8 to Point 9 = 1/20 Hips girth
+ 0.5 cm to 1 cm = 5.5 cm
From Point 8 is drawing up line for Point 10.
Point 7 to Point 11= 1/2 (Point 7 to Point 9)
Point 6 to Point 12 =
Point 7 to Point 11
Point 13 is on knee line and Point 14 is on waist line.
Point 12 to Point l5 = 1/4 Trouser leg bottom size
– 1 cm = 9.5 cm
Point 12 to Point 16 = 1/4 Trouser leg bottom size – 1 cm = 9.5 cm
Point 15 to Point 15a = 8 cm
Merging Point 3 and Point 15a receives
Point 9, and merging Point 9 and 16a receives Point 17 and Point 19.
Point 16 to Point 16a = 8 cm
Point 10 to Point 20 = 0.5 cm to 1 cm
Point 8a to Point 8b = 1/2 (Point 8a to Point 17)
Point 20 to Point 21 = 1/4 Waist girth +
2 cm + 0.5 cm = 20 cm
Point 21 to Point 22 = Point 1 to Point 2
Point 18 to Point 23 = 1 cm
Point 19 to Point 24 = 1 cm
On the front part dart is width of 1.5 cm to 2.5 cm, a length 9 cm to 10 cm.
Description
of work – back part:
Back of the trousers is constructed based on the front part.
Point 11 to Point 25 = 1.5 cm
Point 25 to Point 26 = 1/4 Back
waist width = 6.5 cm
Point
3a to Point 27 = 4 cm
Point 28 to Point 29 = Back waist
width = 26 cm
Point 13 to Point 31 = (Point 13 to Point 24) + 2 cm
Point
13 to Point 32 = (Point 13 to Point 23) + 2 cm
Points 32 and 29 are
joined to the intersection with the line 1.
Point
25 to Point 29 = Point 25 to Point 30
Points 31 and 30 connect the additional line.
Point
13 to Point 36 = (Point 13 to Point 35) + 1 cm
Point
36 to Point 37 = 0.5 cm to1cm
Point 37 to Point 38 = 1/4 Waist girth
+ 3 cm + 0.5 cm = 21 cm
From Point 39 down to measure 1 cm.
Point 15 to Point 33 = 2 cm = Point 15a to Point 33a
Point 16 to Point 34 = 2 cm = Point 16a to Point 34a
On the back part dart is width of 3 cm to 4 cm, a length 13 cm to 15 cm.
CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHES FOR BABIES
Girls and boys develop at different
rates. At birth, boys have slightly higher mass and are higher than girls. The
newborn has an average length of 49 to 50 cm. An infant grows up during the
first two years of life. When baby's head occupies 1/4 length of body (25%),
and head circumference was greater than the volume of the bust. Initially the
head is growing along with the body, and then its growth slows. The stomach is
larger than the volume of the bust. Arms and legs are very short in infants and
undeveloped. In the one-year length of the head of the child in relation to the
length of the body takes up 1/5, a child of four whole length of the body has a
length of six heads. Due to the slow development of the leg in children is
increasingly developing stomach and torso so that the chest narrower than the
waist girth, while other proportions as the adult man.
Babies shirts
Basic
dimension:
Height
girth = 50 cm
Bust girth = 40 cm
Waist girth = 40 cm
Hips girth = 41 cm
Help size:
Armhole depth = 1/4 Bust girth = 10 cm
Centre back = 1/4 Height girth – 1cm = 11.5 cm
Waist to hip = Centre back + Armhole depth = 21.5
cm
Length of the pattern = Waist to hip + (7.5 to 10) cm
= 29 cm
Neck depth = 1/20 Bust girth + (0.5 to 3) cm = 6.3 cm
Overarm = 18 cm
Description of work:
Point 1 to Point 2 = Armhole depth = 10 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = Length of the
pattern = 29 cm
From Point 1, Point 2 and Point 3 draw a horizontal line to the right.
Point 1 to Point 4 = Neck depth =
6.3 cm
Point 2 to Point 5 = 1/4 Height
girth + Overarm + 2 cm = 30 cm
Point 2 to Point 6 = 1/4 Height
girth + 5 cm = 15 cm
Point 7 is at the intersection of
the line from Point 3 and Point 6.
Point 1 to Point 8 = 2 cm
Point 4 to Point 8 = draw a back
neckline
Point 1 to Point 9 = 4 cm
Point 4 to Point 9 = draw a front
neckline
Point 6 to Point 10 = 2 cm
Point 5 to Point 11 = 1 cm
Point 10 to Point 11 = draw a sleeve
seam
Point 12 is at the intersection of
the line from Point 5 and Point 1.
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| Basic construction babies shirts |
Romper
suits for babies
Basic
dimension:
Height
girth = 68 cm
Bust girth = 46 cm
Waist girth = 48 cm
Hips girth = 47 cm
Overarm = 24 cm
Help size:
Armhole depth = 1/4 Bust girth = 11.5 cm
Centre back = 1/4 Height girth – 1cm = 16 cm
Waist to hip = Centre back + Armhole depth + (2 to
3) cm = 30 cm
Length of the pattern = 3/4 Height girth + 10 cm = 61
cm
Neck depth = 1/12 Bust girth + (0.5 to 3) cm = 6.8 cm
Across back = 1/8 Bust girth + (3.5 to 8.5) cm +1
=10.75 cm
Armhole Width = 1/8 Bust girth + (2 to 3.5) cm = 8.75 cm
Across front = 1/4 Bust girth + (1.5 to 2 cm) cm = 15
cm
Description of work - romper suits:
Point 1 to Point 2 = Armhole depth =
11.5 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = Waist to hip =
30 cm
Point 1 to Point 4 = Length of the pattern = 61 cm
From Point 1, Point 2, Point 3 and
Point 4 draw a horizontal line to the right.
Point 1 to Point 5 = Neck depth = 6.8 cm
Point 5 to Point 6 = 1 cm
Point 1 to Point 6 = draw a back neckline
Point 1 to Point 7 = Across back = 10.75 cm
From Point 7 draw a vertical line up.
Point 8 is at the intersection of
the line from Point 1 and Point 7.
Point 8 to Point 9 = 0.5 cm
Point 9 to Point 10 = 2 cm
Point 7 to Point 11 = 1/2 Armhole Width + 1 cm =
5.4 cm
From Point 11 draw a vertical line down.
Point 7 to Point 12 = 1/4 (Point 7 to Point 8) = 2.9
cm
Point 12 to Point 13 = 1.5 cm
Connect the Point
11, Point 13 and Point 10.
Point 11 to Point 14 = 1/2 Armhole Width - 1 cm =
3.4 cm
From Point 14 draw a vertical line up.
Point 14 to Point 15 = Across front = 13.5 cm
From Point 15 draw a vertical line up and down.
Point 16 is at the intersection of
the line from Point 1 and Point 15.
Point 16 to Point 17 = Neck depth =
6.8 cm
Point 16 to Point 18 = Neck depth +
1 cm = 7.8 cm
Point 17 to Point 18 = draw a front
neckline
Point 19 is at the intersection of
the line from Point 1 and Point 14.
Point 19 to Point 20 = 2 cm
Point 17 to Point 20 = Front shoulder seam
Point 17 to Point 21 = Point 6 to
Point 10 = 6.23 cm
Point 14 to Point 22 = 1/4 Armhole Width = 2.2 cm
Connect the Point
11, Point 22 and Point 21.
Point 15 to Point 23 = 0.5 cm
Point 2 to Point 24 = 1 cm
Point 25 is at the intersection of
the line from Point 3 and Point 15.
Point 25 to Point 26 = 1/6 Hips
girth = 8 cm
Point 3 to Point 27 = 1/6 Hips girth
+ 2 cm = 10 cm
Connect the Point
1, Point 24 and Point 27 for back seam.
Point 28 is at the intersection of
the line from Point 4 and Point 11.
Point 28 to Point 29 = 2 cm
Point 29 to Point 30 = 10 cm
Point 28 to Point 31 = 4 cm
Point 31 to Point 32 = 10 cm
Point 28 to Point 33 = 2/5 (Point 11
to Point 28) = 20 cm
Point 28 to Point 33 = draw a back
side seam
Point 31 to Point 33 = draw a front
side seam
Point 26 is connected
with Point 32.
Point 32 to Point 34 = 1/2 (Point 26
to Point 32)
Point 34 to Point 35 = 2 cm
Connect the Point
26, Point 35 and Point 32 for front inside seam.
Point 27 is connected
with Point 30.
Point 30 to Point 36 = 1/2 (Point 27
to Point 30)
Point 36 to Point 37 = 2 cm
Connect the Point
27, Point 37 and Point 30 for back inside seam.
Point 29 to Point 38 = 1/2 (Point 29
to Point 30)
Point 38 to Point 39 = 5 cm
Point 38 to Point 40 = 1 cm
Point 38 to Point 41 = 1 cm
Connect the Point
41, Point 39 and Point 40 for dart.
Point 31 to Point 42 = 1/2 (Point 31
to Point 32)
Point 28 to Point 43 = 9 cm
Point 44 is at the intersection of
the line from Point 42 and Point 43.
Connect the Point
31, Point 44 and Point 32 for foot seam.
 |
| Basic romper suits construction |
From the pattern of romper suits measure seam foot length for
foot girth = (Point 31 to Point 44 to Point 32) + (Point 29 to Point 41) +
(Point 30 to Point 40) = 30 cm
Radius = 4.8 cm
Point 1 to Point 2 = Radius – 1 cm =
3.8 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = Radius + 0.5 cm =
5.3 cm
Point 1 to Point 4 = Radius – 1 cm =
3.8 cm
Point 1 to Point 5 = Radius + 1.5 cm =
6.3 cm
Connect the Point
2, Point 3, Point 4 and Point 4 for foot seam.
 |
| Construction foot for romper suits and sleeve construction |
 |
| Collar construction |
Description of work - sleeve:
Point 1 to Point 2 = Overarm = 24 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = 12.5 cm
Point 3 to Point 4 = 1/2 Armhole width = 4 cm
Point 1 to Point 4 = draw a seam line
Point 2 to Point 5 = 10 cm
Point 4 to Point 5 = draw a seam line
Description of work - collar:
Description of work - collar:
Point 1 to Point 2 = Neck depth front + Neck depth back = 18.5 cm
Point 2 to Point 3 = 1 cm
Point 1 to Point 4 = 3 cm
Point 4 to Point 5 = 8 cm
Point 3 to Point 6 = 8 cm
Connect the Point 2 and Point 6.
Point 2 to Point 4 = neck seam
CONSTRUCTION AND MODELLING CHILDREN'S DRESSES
Basic dimension:
Height
girth = 140 cm
Bust girth = 68 cm
Waist girth
= 60 cm
Hips girth = 74 cm
Help size:
Armhole depth = 1/10 Bust girth + (7.5 to 8) cm + (1 to2) cm = 16.8 cm
Centre back = ¼ Height girth – 1cm =
34 cm
Waist to
hip = Centre back + Armhole
depth = 50.8 cm
Length of
the pattern = Waist to hip + (9 to 10) cm = 60.8 cm
Neck depth = 1/20 Bust girth + 2 = 5.4
cm
Centre
front = Centre back + 1/20 Bust girth –1 = 36.4
cm
Across back = 1/8 Bust girth + (3.5 to 4) cm +1 =13.5 cm
Armhole Width = 1/8 Bust girth – 0.5 + (2 to 3) cm = 11 cm
Across
front = ¼ Bust girth – (3 to 3.5cm) + 1.5 = 15 cm
Description of work:
Point 1 to Point 2
= Armhole depth = 16.8
cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = Centre
back = 34 cm
Point 1 to Point 4
= Waist to hip = 50.8 cm
Point 1 to Point 5
= Length of the pattern = 60.8 cm
Point 1 to Point 6
= Neck depth = 5.4 cm
Point 6 to Point 7
= 1.5 cm
Point 2 to Point 8
= Across back = 13.5 cm
Point 8 to Point 9
=2/3 Armhole Width = 7.3 cm
Point 8 to Point 11
= ½ (Point 8 to Point 10)
Point 7 to Point 12
= Point 2 to Point 3
Point 8 to Point A
= ½ (Point 8 to Point 11)
Point 9 to Point 13
= 10 cm
Point 13 to Point14
= 1/3 Armhole Width = 3.6 cm
Point 14 to Point
15 = Arcoss front = 15 cm
Point 16 to Point
17 = 0.7 cm
Point 18 to Point
19 = Centre front = 36.4 cm
Point 19 to Point
20 = Neck depth + 0.5 cm = 5.9 cm
Point 19 to Point
21 = Neck depth + 1 cm = 6.4 cm
Point 19 to Point
22 = Neck depth + 0.7 cm = 6.1 cm
Point 14 to Point
23 = (Point 8 to Point 10) – (1 to 1.5) cm
Point 20 to Point
24 = sholder
Point 14 to Point
B = ¼ Armhole Width = 2.75 cm
Description of sleeve work:
Point 1 to Point 2 = Sleeve crown height = 11.4 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = Overarm = 3/8 Height girth – 2 cm = 50.5 cm
Point 3 to Point 4 = 1.5 cm
Point 2 to Point 5 = 1/2
(Point 2 to Point 4) – 1 cm
Point 2 to Point 6 = 1/4
Armhole Width = 2,75 cm
Point 6 to Point 7 = 17 cm
Point 9 to Point 11 = 1 cm
Point 10 to Point 12 = 1 cm
Point 7 to Point 13 = 1/4 Armhole Width = 2.75 cm
Point 13 to Point 14 = 0.5 cm
Point 6 to Point 19 = Point 13 to Point B
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