Design and marketing

by Dr Danijela Paunovic

Apparel technology has experienced radical changes caused by technological development, automation of production processes, computer applications and the occurrence of competitive international garment producers (China, India ...).

In the production of textiles, which are inevitably moved to the east of the country, clothing industry still exists as a specific, dominant and leading European fashion industry (Paris, Milan, Rome ...). In the EU there is a clear commitment to achieve primacy not released, and a prerequisite for the full satisfaction of all customers from the standpoint of quality clothing products with an increasing emphasis on design as an important component of quality.

In the modern fashion industry's most successful manufacturers are those that have organized professional teams for the design and marketing, as dictated by the cycle of current fashion and easily introduce new fashion designs, thus surprising the competition.

Mass customization strategies

The garment industry is industry that forerunners in the application of mass customization. The reason behind this development can be seen in the fact that clothes offer the potential to all three possible dimensions of customization: fit (shape, measurements and size), functionality and aesthetic design (taste, forms).

Mass customization strategies can be used at any of these 5 stages in the production process:

1. Customer Involvement at the Design and Pattern Stage

The examples of developing systems which are present on the world market (Optitex, Gerber, Lectra, Investronika, Assyst) allow taking all variations of future garment into consideration. Their behaviour is simulated, their impact on the environment is analyzed, and simultaneous design is used aiming to obtain the best solution in the given conditions which reduce subsequent changes (correction model design, adjustments to fit in cutting layout for basic and supplementary material) to a minimum.

Creating a prototype model for industrial production in the formation of products in the clothing industry involves the development of CAD methods for the preparation of construction segments. The number of possible variations in colour, shape and design, modelling and re-modelling of garment is almost unlimited.

Scheduling

The daily production of clothing deals with many work orders, so it is necessary to complete scheduling. Scheduling means determining the order of carrying out jobs. Priorities can be determined on the basis of several rules:

- FIFO (first-in, first-out),

- LIFO (last-in, first-out),

- DDATE (earliest due date) - which product must be made first,

- CUSTPR (highest customer priority) – first the product for priority customers,

- SETUP (similar setup) - first the similar products which require a minimum setting of machines,

- SPT (shortest processing time) - priority for products that last for the shortest period,

- LPT (Longest Processing Time) – priority for products that last for the longest period.

MADE TO MEASURE

by Dr Danijela Paunovic

The need to meet customer demands and competition, that the JIT and QRS strategies to achieve customer imposes the use of modern technology in the CIM concept, or import of technology (CAD/CAM systems, 3D body scanners for the production of Made to Measure). This mode requires an organized, optimized and computerized construction preparation (MIS), in which the user desires through virtual catalogs, showroom and on-line customer service solved in the shortest possible time.

The values of average body dimensions have changed dramatically mainly due to diet, and older age population (the largest buyers of clothing in developed countries) have frequent physical strain. Problems were those customers whose anthropological characteristics did not fit the standards, whether they are from a different geographical area or to go beyond the standards. For such customers is necessary to individually measure and make their computer to transfer through clothing manufacturer where adjusts the standard cuts and made garment that is supplied to the buyer within 24 h.

Programming Software Made to Measure is set for this mode of operation. Used Contactless measurement of body measures and adjustment measures of a simulated human body in motion. Three-dimensional physical data are taken for two-dimensional shapes cuts of clothing. The most important element in the processing cycle is to develop a computer model of a man and a system for registering contactless physical measures.

Modular Production System

The modular system was first implemented at company Toyota in 1978 as part of JIT, and was known in the 1980s in the West as the Toyota Sewing System. Monden  in 1998 gave this system a U-turn layout and claimed that the main advantage of that system was that the amount produced can easily be arranged by changing the number of operators working in the system. The modular system works on the principle of pull-type production systems, in which the job order comes from the last step to previous steps. Because of this, the amount of work in process is low, even working when no inventory is possible.

SWOT ANALYSIS IN DESIGNING NEW MODELS

Today designing and getting of new ideas in fashion industry should become an organised process that requires thorough, systematic approach that is given a basic direction both by a designer and a capable manager team. Such an educated and creative team ensures designing and gaining new articles of clothing as being the most important element in the development of garment industry done as planned and continually according to current situations and priorities.

In fashion industry this process is neglected, so many companies are struggling for their existence. It is necessary to do SWOT analysis in order to get marketing weapon and overcome all existing problems that is to take all advantages and eliminate weaknesses of the company.

It is possible to point out solutions and consequences by the analysis. As well as to show how a fashion industry should get better by the help of this analysis. SWOT analysis must be summarised, specific and to analyse key questions of each company but not ad-hoc suppositions that do not point out future actions. On the basis of SWOT analysis it is necessary to do detailed estimate of competition in fashion industry.

SWOT analysis is the method of strategic planning that enables analysis of estimates and combining of internal factors with information from external sources on the market and in business environment.