11/20/2013

CONSTRUCTION AND MODELLING MEN'S JACKET


Basic dimension:

Height girth = 180 cm

Chest girth = 100 cm
Waist girth = 90 cm
Hips girth = 102 cm

Help size:
Armhole depth =1/10 Chest girth + 21 сm = 31сm
Centre back = 1/4 Height girth + 3.5 cm = 48.5 cm
Waist to hip = Centre back + (20 to 22) cm = 69.5 cm
Length of the pattern = 1/2 Height girth = 90 cm
Neck depth = 1/6 (1/2 Chest girth) + 0.5 cm = 8.83 cm
Centre front = Armhole depth + 21 cm = 52 cm
Across back = 1/8 Chest girth + 13 cm = 25.5 cm
Armhole Width = 1/8 Chest girth + 7.5 cm = 20 cm
Across front = 1/4 Chest girth + 2.5 cm = 27.5 cm

Description of work – back:
Point 1 to Point 2 = Armhole depth = 31 cm
Point 2 to Point 3 = Centre back = 48.5 cm
Point 1 to Point 4 = Waist to hip = 69.5 cm
Point 1 to Point 5 = Length of the pattern = 90 cm
Point 1 to Point 6 = Neck depth = 8.83 cm
Point 6 to Point 7 = 2 cm
Point 2 to Point 8 = Across back = 25.5 cm
Point 8 to Point 9 = 1/2 Armhole Width +1cm = 11 cm
Point 8 to Point A = 6 cm

Description of work front:
Point 9 to Point 10 = 1/2 Armhole Width - 1cm = 9 cm
Point 10 to Point 11 = Across front = 27.5 cm
Point 12 to Point 13 = Centre front = 52 cm
Point 13 to Point 14 = Neck depth = 8.83 cm
Point 13 to Point 15 = Neck depth + 1 cm = 9.83 cm
Point 10 to Point В = 4 cm
        

The sleeve construction is based on additional measures:
Armhole = 70 cm
Sleeve crown height =1/3 Armhole = 16.6 cm
Overarm = 66 cm

Description of work:
Point 1 to Point 2 = Sleeve crown height =16.6 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = Overarm = 66 cm
Point 2 to Point 4 = 1/2 (2 to 3) cm -1cm = 24 cm
Point 2 to Point 5 = 1/2 Armhole = 35 cm
Point 5 to Point 6 = Point 2 to Point



 Modelling

Collar construction and modelling 

Completing front part 

Completing back part 


 
 Lining

Completing sleeve 

Completing interlining






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